Manual transmissions are MORE FUN, but do require some maintenance and occasional replacement of parts. Most questions I hear have to do with bleeding the system or inadequate release of the clutch when the clutch pedal is engaged. The second of a three part series appears in this issue. Here are my tips on this subject!!!
Clutch Pedal Install
Anyone Can Do It!
There are other reasons you may be having clutch or shifting problems with your Fiero. However, this pedal replacement discussed here cures the MOST common cause (95%). Even if your problem is not directly related to the pedal right now, you still need at some point to replace the Aluminum pedal (original equipment) with the steel pedal (later revision).
This is going to be quite detailed and this one set of instructions is, hopefully written to cover all years of Fieros. Those with automatics may want to read this just so they can show their friends how smart they are.
Parts needed:
Pontiac PN 10066423, retail cost $ 32.75. This part is now out of production and you’ll need to find a used one or find someone who has set aside an inventory of these pedals. The Fiero Store has recently added this item to their product line. It is listed as item#66423 at $29.95.
Also, you may need (depending on year):
A bushing for the Banjo, a 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD with one lip. Try the hardware store; cost may be $ 1.00/each.
Note: using this bushing will prevent you from having to buy the new $ 45 Banjo the dealer is going to try to sell you.
Two 3/8" ID flat washers. Again, try the hardware store; cost may be $ .10/each.
Definitions:
Banjo: Connects the pedal to clutch master cylinder. Looks like this ____________O
Bushing: At the connection of the pedal and the banjo. Looks like this _l__l_ laying down. NOTE: I have found that a great source for the bushings is at you local speed shop. You can buy the Hurst Shifter Bushing Repair kit and have enough extra correct size bushings to last thru your next 5 Fieros.
Washer: At the connection of the pedal and banjo. Looks like this _____ laying down.
Pivot bolt: Long bolt on which pedals pivot. Looks like this H===========\\\\\
Pivot spring: A redundant spring that wraps around the pedal at the pivot point. This spring is not to be used on the replacement pedal.
To replace the pedal you will need the following tools: 13mm socket, 15mm socket, socket ratchet, short 3” to 4” socket extension, needle nose pliers, 15mm open end wrench, and a drop cord or other light.
Working position: Prone, lying on back, push seat back all the way or removed, kick off shoes put feet on seat back, take tools & light with you.
Once in position:
1) Remove retaining clip holding banjo to the pedal and slide banjo off pedal.
2) Disconnect the cruise control switch from the pedal, if any.
3) With 15 mm tools remove nut from pivot bolt.
4) Slide pivot bolt out about half of its length and far enough to disengage the
clutch pedal, but not the brake pedal.
5) This step will save you a lot of work. Way up inside there on the driver’s
side of the assembly, you will see a "U" shaped bracket.
(approximately 1" wide strap steel looking thing) it is held onto the
assembly by 2 - 13mm bolts. To make this an easy job unscrew those 2 bolts 6 or
8 turns, DO NOT REMOVE THEM, they are real hard to get back in.
6) To remove pedal from the car work it/pull it down. You will encounter some
resistance to this action caused by the pivot spring. Cut/pull/bend that spring,
just get it out of there. Trust me the spring is a throw away. This position is
supported by a 1986 service bulletin issued when the new, replacement pedals
came out.
7) Once you have the pedal in your
hand, you can get out of the car.
8) Transfer the greasy pivot pin and 2 plastic bushings from the old pedal to
the new one. A little dab of grease can be used on it if necessary.
9) You will notice that when comparing the new and old pedals that the pins on
the pedals where the banjo attaches to it are different sizes (in most cases).
10) You will also notice that the banjo (which is still in the car) has a large
5/8" hole in it. In some cases it has a bushing in it that sizes it down to
3/8".
11) The goal is to assure through the use of bushings that the OD of the pin on
the pedal and the ID of the banjo hole are the same size. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY
PLAY HERE.
12) Re-install the new pedal in the reverse order as removal with the exception
of reinstalling the banjo onto the pedal, (see#13).
13) Re-install the banjo to the pedal making sure that the banjo loop (hole) is
facing in the UP position like it is in the banjo illustration above.
14) Now the only thing left to do is very important also. Assure that there is
no left/right movement of the banjo on the pedal pin. Use flat washers to keep
that movement to a minimum.
You are now done!
ONE FINAL NOTE: Some people have the same aluminum pedal symptoms, but have a steel pedal. I have seen one case where the steel pedal had a similar problem and when replaced with a new steel pedal the problem was cured.
LAST FINAL NOTE: Some factory built '87 & '88 Fieros were miss-assembled and the banjo was put onto the pedal upside down. Make sure your banjo is mounted as described in #13 above with the end loop facing upward!